PW808 PSU board for sale anywhere?

DJR1968

New Member
Hi, I recently bought a HDR FOX T2 on ebay (sold as brand new), to have as a backup in case anything happened to my working unit which I've had for years. Everything worked fine for a few days, stuck custom firmware on it which all went without a hitch. Then after a few days it was dead, the 5A fuse in the plug had blown. This was replaced and it worked again for a day or so then died again. The weird thing is the fuse in the plug is fine this time, which leads me to believe there is an issue with the PSU board.

I took the board out and upon close inspection noticed a very fine crack in it, see below.

20190209_143309a.jpg

It doesn't look like any of the pads are damaged or lifted but it certainly doesn't look healthy to me.

I started poking around with my multimeter to check voltages and I think the transformer may be faulty, as I measured 110Vac on each of the primary pins (is this correct? there's 240 going into the board), but nothing at all on any of the secondary ones. Everything else on the board *appears* ok to my eyes, no blown capacitors or anything.

I contacted Humax by telephone and arranged delivery of a new PW808, but what turned up a few days later was not what I expected at all. I received a 12V plug-in wall transformer, like this:

s-l300.jpg

I got back in touch with them again and was told that they did not have stock of the original PSU board (despite what they initially told me on the phone), but what they sent me was the current power supply that they had in stock for the HDR FOX T2 and should still be able to power the machine (not sure how exactly).

So, my question is this. Does anyone know where I can purchase an original PW808 PSU board from? Google searches have turned up nothing so far. Alternatively, can the power supply they sent me be used to power the HDR FOX T2 as Humax suggests? It only outputs 12Vdc but if I take the transformer off the PW808 and attach the new power supply output to where the 12V would have come out of the transformer will this work? Will I get both 12V and 5.8V?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
the current power supply that they had in stock for the HDR FOX T2
You've been "sold" a pup. That looks like what might power a HDR-2000T, definitely not a HDR-FOX. Humax support reliable as ever.

I have speculated on researching a DIY PSU replacement, but it needs to respond to standby etc. Unless you are up to the task, your only chance is to acquire a donor HDR-FOX.
 
Unless you are up to the task, your only chance is to acquire a donor HDR-FOX.
Question, I have faint recollection that the power supply from a DTR-1000 will fit an HDR-FOX T2 but not sure if it is for the earlier or later boxes; can someone clarify? The advantage of the DTR-1000 is that they tend to be much cheaper on ebay.
 
I have speculated on researching a DIY PSU replacement, but it needs to respond to standby etc.
Does it? It's a while since I've looked, but I thought there were essentially only 4 wires on the old models - 12V and 5.8V, and from what I've read, only a single 12V feed for the newer ones (I don't have one).
It is probably not that difficult to produce the relevant outputs from some external PSU and feed in to the unit. Anyone got any ideas what the current draws are for these various configurations?
 
I started poking around with my multimeter to check voltages and I think the transformer may be faulty, as I measured 110Vac on each of the primary pins (is this correct? there's 240 going into the board), but nothing at all on any of the secondary ones. Everything else on the board *appears* ok to my eyes, no blown capacitors or anything.
This suggests the transformer includes a fusible link that has "self-protected" by going open-circuit. The crack in the PCB doesn't look bad, I have repaired worse. If it were me, I would be looking for a transformer to transplant, and repairing the crack.

I started poking around with my multimeter to check voltages and I think the transformer may be faulty, as I measured 110Vac on each of the primary pins (is this correct?
It depends where you are measuring. "On each of the primary pins" - if you have the probes across the pins you really should have 240-ish V(ac), but "on each pin" suggests you might be measuring to chassis, in which case half could be OK (there will be a potential divider action in the input filter). All that depends on earthing arrangements (which I can't recall off the top of my head).

Incidentally: although originally rather sceptical, I repaired a Panasonic DVD recorder recently... the PSU electrolytics having gone bulgy (yes, they were obvious - the normally flat top to the can becomes domed) and needing replacement. That was all I had to do, and the result was a working recorder for a few quid on components.

The worst thing about the job was the deterioration of my eyesight for close work - I understand why people go into management (rather than "doing") with "maturity". What I need is a pair of those binocular magnifiers on a headband that flip down (and can still wear glasses). There appears to be all manner of options (potential rubbish) on eBay, anybody got recommendations?
 
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Nice idea, but they won't help - I have correction for astigmatism in my prescription glasses. Without that corrected, everything is fuzzy whatever the distance!
 
I think there is a general problem with "single" optics: all they really do is let you focus at closer distances, so to see with them you have to get in close when actually I need to be able to work at a comfortable distance (don't want to singe my nose with the soldering iron!). I'm thinking telescopic optics, like the watchmakers and jewellers use.
 
I put reading glasses over my prescription glasses. The prescription ones correct my astigmatism and the readers just allow me to get closer to stuff.
 
I've got some flip-down lenses somewhere - don't use them because they don't fit very well on my frames. Maybe I'll dig them out and see what I can do to adapt.

Still interested in telescopic though.
 
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