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Miscellaneous Purchasing Advice/Recommendations

Ditto. At least Win7 (and Linux) doesn't unilaterally interrupt your ability to get anything done by insisting on updating whether you like it or not. I think Microsoft employees don't factor in that their consumers don't necessarily have gigabit broadband and stonking processors with SSDs.
Surely there is some way to prevent automatic updating. I've a feeling in XP I had to stop certain processes running - probably by getting into "services" and stopping an "automatic ..." from running automatically. Don't know whether that is possible in later versions of Windows. I find that disconnecting from t'net to do some jobs and reconnecting when required solves some of the problems. (Keeping a tablet or phone handy for quick web searches.)
Getting things done on PCs used to be a problem in the university. The damned email client kept popping up windows and stealing focus whilst I was trying to draw illustrations. I put a stop to that, but it meant having to manually check for email. (I still do that, and don't allow push notifications for most things on my tablet & phone. I'm a control freak!)
 
Maybe firewall those particular communications, but it's too complicated for most!
I use an app called WPD, you can disable auto updates and so much more, very easy to use. Works for windows 7 to 11.
 
I chose that to emulate the snapshotting system I have on Windows: RollbackRx. To create a system snapshot in BTRFS (via Timeshift) all it has to do is disable writes to existing sectors, new writes get written to new sectors. Snapshots are thus instant.

Just how often does one need to resize a file system, especially when the file system occupies the whole HDD (or in this case, SSD)?
 
Just how often does one need to resize a file system, especially when the file system occupies the whole HDD
Well never in that case, but I don't work like that. I have pooled storage and multiple volumes (on different hardware - some HD, some SSD) for different things.
 
I think you've mentioned pooled storage before, and I can see its convenience, but I have specific drives for specific things: an SSD for the OS, a gash HDD for virtual memory etc, and then my big HDDs were supposed to be a RAID for user data but at the moment I'm just running one!
 
Okay..... so I've finally pinned my increasingly poor radio reception in the car to a lousy 12V-5V adapter running the satnav!

I'll happily buy a new one, but how do I assure my purchase will have low RF noise???
 
Okay..... so I've finally pinned my increasingly poor radio reception in the car to a lousy 12V-5V adapter running the satnav!

I'll happily buy a new one, but how do I assure my purchase will have low RF noise???
Halford’s would probably guarantee one. I had a poor one years ago. Now have an Anker which has been quiet and reliable.
 
Anker? That's interesting, I just bought a dashcam marketed by one of their subsidiaries (and will no doubt come with a USB power adapter).
 
I just bought a dashcam marketed by one of their subsidiaries
The dashcam is actually branded AUKEY, and although I've not set the dashcam up yet (need to source a microSD card) I immediately tried out the power adapter - seems OK so far!

The reject one is Silver Crest - so must be something I picked up in Lidl (or Aldi) a long time ago.
 
Beware these router/trimmers (multiple listings on eBay etc):

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Although marked "CE" they definitely do not meet the electrical safety requirements. The one I bought is marked "CE" and "UKCA", but does not even have a power or current rating on the label!

I intended to give it (the equivalent of) a PAT anyway, but the first thing I found was a bent mains plug pin which would have (fortunately) prevented it being plugged in. I presume that was an individual random fault, but there is nothing random about the lack of earth continuity to the exposed metalwork, and as the exposed metalwork is actually the outer casing of the motor there won't be double-insulation either!

Tellingly, in the package was included some rubberised gloves, and the instructions say not to touch the metalwork!!!

Internal examination reveals the mains lead is only 2-core, and although the plug is fitted with a 13A fuse the conductors are 16 strand x 0.2mm – ie 0.5mm², 3A current rating (750W).

Frankly, I believe this is illegal for sale in the UK, and I presume the EU too.
 
Internal examination reveals the mains lead is only 2-core, and although the plug is fitted with a 13A fuse the conductors are 16 strand x 0.2mm – ie 0.5mm², 3A current rating (750W).
It is possible for equipment to be double insulated (with a 2-core cable) and have metal casings or other external metal parts. Though what you say about it being the actual motor (stator?) does seem a bit suspicious.
 
Though what you say about it being the actual motor (stator?) does seem a bit suspicious.
The only things between the mains (applied to the rotor through the brushes and commutator) and the metal casing are the enamel on the windings and the bearing (which I confirmed to be conductive). There are also the stator windings; I don't recall how their core laminations secured into the assembly and I suspect that might be insulated, but it's immaterial.

My contacts tell me eBay won't be interested and not even Trading Standards are interested, so there's nothing stopping this kind of potentially lethal crap falling into the hands of the unwary.
 
And, it turns out, totally unsuitable for doing some actual routing. The "foot" seems to grip the motor casing OK, but no matter how tight I make it the vibration causes it to slip and change the depth of cut. I now have to go through the nause of cobbling a proper mounting, or buy a proper router!
 
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