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Changing Direction Internal Doors Open

BMAX said:
. . . all the frames that were fitted into brick walls (one brick and rendering ~5 inches thick) were single mouldings like mine, whereas frames fitted into partition walls (stud and plasterboard~2.5-3 inch thick) were two pieces nailed together.
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I had come to the same conclusion, that a single rebated section seems to be used on brick internal walls
 
I have also noted that doors set into partition walls tend to be lightweight - hollow frames covered with hardboard pressing - so the frame does not need to be as rigid.
 
Having a brick wall or timber/metal stud wall does not decide the type of frame, fitting very heavy fire doors to partition walls is very common and standard practise in offices, even steel doors though heavier gauge stud work is required. My last three houses have all had original door frames with a door stop pinned on and fitted to brickwork, a 1950's a 1920's and my present Victorian era house. Even now this type of frame is the norm as it allows different thicknesses of doors to be fitted to the same frame. I did some work on an architects office a few years ago where the frames came in prehung with the doors and even those had a separate door stop. By the way I worked as a dry liner for 35 years so have seen a lot doors and very few one piece frames and they were usually hardwood in commercial/ office buildings.
 
I did not mean to imply that the type of wall decides the type of frame, I was simply commenting on possible reasons for the choice. I would agree that office standards are different to domestic and would certainly require heavier gauge materials .
Older properties invariably used fabricated frames as there were no readily available alternatives. A quick glance at any builders merchants catalogue such as Jewsons or Wickes offer both types usually with more choice of moulded types.
However I can not for a moment disagree with your 35 years experience in the trade, and leave it at that.
To think this all started over a bog door!
 
Exactly. Even though I participated in the discussion my intention was to "vent" a bit of frustration, possibly in a vaguely similar manner to BH in the original thread. The doors/door frame diagram etc. really was off-topic. As it was about which way the door goes (oo-er missus!) I can't see anything wrong with the title of this thread.
 
Ooooo touchy!

Let's lighten up, it's only a forum.
 
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Well then, I'm pretty bored with all this so I'll tell you everything (well most of it) about the frames in my 1930s house. They are all constructed of four bits of wood. There is one bit terminating the wall, the width of which is determiner by the thickness of the wall and presumably nailed to the cement between the bricks using cut nails. To both edges of this are nailed? two other fancy bits against the face of the wall on both sides. On the face of the plank affixed to the end of the wall is nailed another strip of wood that stops the door 'going right through'. Reversing a door is a piece of p**s.
 
What about the top?
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Ah! You mean four different cross sections? Using that reasoning mine have two.
 
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BMAX said:
You mean four different cross sections?
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No, he's talking about the construction of just one upright. One PSE "plank" (as it were) lining the doorway, a piece of architrave either side to tidy the plaster line, and the batten that the door shuts against. Like I described before.
 
MikeSh said:
Strange. Most people find destruction oddly therapeutic.
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Yes, but the reason for the destruction and the ambulance/phone calls to hospital/phone calls back from nurses, occupational health, psych team and the formulation of a care package is much more of a downer than blowing the bloody door off is an upper. Still it made a change for me to make a lot of horrible noise and annoy the neighbours rather than the other way round. :D
 
Black Hole said:
Ignite fart?
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Don't smoke so don't carry around a lighter or matches. I suppose I could try switching the light on and off a few times to see if a spark would do it.
Of course, I didn't really blow the door off, I used a jigsaw to make a nasty wiggly cut and then stepped on the bottom of the door to break it off. Five bracing pieces, ten screws, some filler and a couple of licks of paint have made the door serviceable until it gets replaced.
 
It's never as easy as they suggest on Start Trek when they use phasers to cut through - they stand 20 feet away and manage to slice a straight line with them.
 
Not with my wobbly hands they wouldn't. I don't have an obvious shake - but if I try to take photographs I have real problems keeping the camera still. So a phaser would fire all over the place. All the aliens gone in one shot.
 
Reminds me of a time when I removed my front door for repair and repaint. As a temporary replacement, I cobbled together two redundant narrower internal hollow doors.I can still see the postman's expression and hear his language when he tried to deliver a letter and ended up holding on to half a door!
 
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