How to remove Orange filter?

brian said:
You are missing the 5th screw from the PCB in step 10, this is hidden from view by the cable on the YouTube video. Also, in step 7, the 4-way and 12-way plugs both require squeezing whilst removing.
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Hi
I am attempting this but can't move the 12-way
Which way should I be squeezing the clip towards top or towards bottom
It seems to put quite a strain on PCB any way to minimize this ?

Thanks
 
JGHummy said:
Hi
I am attempting this but can't move the 12-way
Which way should I be squeezing the clip towards top or towards bottom
It seems to put quite a strain on PCB any way to minimize this ?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Just pinch them, they should then pull off perpendicular to the PCB. Use a magnifier if you can't see the catches. Mine came off easily.
 
You have to squeeze them as hard as you can, then pull the plug out without releasing your grip. I found that a bit of wiggling of the plug tended to help, although they do seem a bit reluctant to let go. I have successfully completed 4off "Green" conversions, and have another waiting to be done.
 
brian said:
You have to squeeze them as hard as you can, then pull the plug out without releasing your grip. I found that a bit of wiggling of the plug tended to help, although they do seem a bit reluctant to let go. I have successfully completed 4off "Green" conversions, and have another waiting to be done.
Click to expand...
Hi
Thanks
But do you use the wires to pull it out ?
 
Having no interest in removing my filters, I have just watched that video for the first time, and it looks a much better job than many of the strip-downs one finds on YouTube!

Am I right in thinking the latch for the 12-way connector is hidden at the far side from the camera? If so, this needs to be squeezed in at the cable entry end, and a built-in lever action opens the jaws at the lower end. The squeeze will need to be quite firm, but once released the connector should withdraw quite easily (although it is against the insertion force of 12 individual pins). As it appears to be proving difficult, I suggest using one hand to provide the squeeze on the latch, and the other to use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to get in under the flange at each end of the connector and ease the connector out that way.

My guess is that inexperienced technicians will underestimate the amount of squeeze required to release the latch. DO NOT pull on the wires!
 
Yes, the 12-way latch is hidden from view in the video, and does require rather a firm squeeze. The problem I found, is that there is not very much to grip onto with your finger and thumb, and it does not seem to want to come apart. The wiggling back and forth, and sideways technique has worked OK for me.
 
We swapped out our failing hard drive yesterday, (straight swap, 1TB) and we de-tangoed at the same time. That 12 way connector is a git to remove, but the results are well worth the effort.
 
dearleuk said:
We swapped out our failing hard drive yesterday, (straight swap, 1TB) and we de-tangoed at the same time. That 12 way connector is a git to remove, but the results are well worth the effort.
Click to expand...
Hi
I managed at last to get that 12 pin out but had to resort to using long nosed pliers to to do the squeezing (I guess my old fingers are not up to the job)
As for the results I am disappointed I still cannot read the display when on standby.
Still while it was open I installed a 2TB that went OK.

Thanks
 
With regards to the brightness of the display with the orange filter removed. My original HDR which is over two years old now, had its orange filter removed 18 months ago. At the time I noticed that there was a major difference in the brightness of the display, but the box was only 6 months old then.
I have recently removed the orange filter in my brand new HDR. Both the old and new units are side-by-side under the TV. The display on the older box is considerably dimmer than the new one, noticably so. Both units have Redring installed but are configured identically. I guess the VFD must age and loose some output.

What I am trying to say is that if you HDR is reasonably old, removing the orange filter might not give the results expected regarding display brightness. Personally, I think the green display, dim or otherwise, is easier to read than the orange.
 
I agree, I have documented a substantial difference between the brightness on my original HDR with a newcomer (no redring involved), and the same is true with my latest. There may be an ageing process, but one cannot rule out production variability or manufacturing changes.
 
I am sure that there will be differences due to the manufacturing process, however, I remember that my old HDR's display was as bright as the new one when I first removed the filter. There has definitely been a diminishing of the display brightness over time. It has only become apparent to me when I compared the old with the new.
 
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