Ok, so this is weird

J

JeffCooper

New Member
We've got a DTR-T1000, and a DTR-T1010, both on the latest version (29.104.0) - and both giving the ignoring the remote control issue. I've in the past just switched them off at the mains, and just assumed they're beginning to die, but on a hunch, I thought I'd check to see if they both did it at the same time/day, and guess what, they did - in fact at the same exact time. I'm writing this at 17:39 on the 21/05/18, and if anyone else can say that their systems just locked up at this same approximate time, I think we've got an Apple-esque conspiracy going on to convince us all to upgrade possibly. Please add to this thread if you can add anything concrete or interesting.
 
My guess would be that something inside your house is affecting both units at the same time, possibly something in the same room?
 
Unless its internet related, what on earth can you imagine could be doing that - electrical spikes or something?
 
certainly the power does, not sure about the vol and channel ones - the remote will also still power on and off, it just wont do anything else - I would have put it down to hardware issues, and I guess it still could be - but my conspiracy theory head, together with the Applegate revelations turning out to be true, just make me a lot more suspicious !
 
JeffCooper said:
Unless its internet related, what on earth can you imagine could be doing that - electrical spikes or something?
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I've had remotes that don't appear to do anything when I turn a lamp on that uses one of those low-power bulbs. Perhaps that's the sort of thing Ezra Pound had in mind. Did you introduce anything new into the room?
 
No, its 2 different remotes (logitech harmony), with the 2 boxes in different rooms - both wired ethernet; as I said in the title, its very weird - but I must admit I was expecting more people to say "hey, thats just happened to me" as well !!
 
Sorry for the newbie post, but I figured this is information worth sharing.
I have been pulling my hair out for months with a recurrent intermittent remote control issue (HDR Fox T2).
The remote would just be painfully slow on the Humax. The same remote was still absolutely fine on the TV.
Turning off and on again would fix it for a few minutes, and then everything was painfully slow and sluggish and unresponsive.
Changed batteries. Reset everything. Wiped custom firmware. Re-installed custom firmware. Changed antenna cabling. Changed HDMI cabling.

And then... I had an epiphany.

My Android QI 3.0 wireless quick charger was the culprit!!!!
It was interference all along!

Take phone off charger, everything super speedy.
Put phone back on charger, everything instantly sluggish.

This may not be your issue, but it is certainly something worth being aware of.
I'm going to dump this post in a few threads now, as I've seen MANY MANY posts about this eact issue, with little to no real resolution.
For me, at least... this is FIXED!

(Hope this is helpful for at least some other people!)
 
Interesting. Can't say I noticed any problems with using my Aukey QI wireless charger. That said, I was unable to pair my laptop with my Bluetooth speaker this morning while the mobile was on charge in the same room so had to unfurl the long audio lead to trail across the room instead to listen to the F1 practise which is online only this weekend (though I have just now found a solution to my Android tablet cutting out on a BBC Sport app online stream when the screen turns off and that is my preferred streaming device).

Edit: Well, what do you know? Just tried again with the charger turned off and it Paired easily. Thanks for the tip.
 
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iFlid said:
I'm going to dump this post in a few threads now, as I've seen MANY MANY posts about this eact issue, with little to no real resolution.
For me, at least... this is FIXED!
Click to expand...
Please don't post the same information in multiple threads.
 
gomezz said:
Interesting. Can't say I noticed any problems with using my Aukey QI wireless charger. That said, I was unable to pair my laptop with my Bluetooth speaker this morning while the mobile was on charge in the same room so had to unfurl the long audio lead to trail across the room instead to listen to the F1 practise which is online only this weekend (though I have just now found a solution to my Android tablet cutting out on a BBC Sport app online stream when the screen turns off and that is my preferred streaming device).

Edit: Well, what do you know? Just tried again with the charger turned off and it Paired easily. Thanks for the tip.
Click to expand...

BOOM!
:eek:)

MartinLiddle said:
Please don't post the same information in multiple threads.
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Fair enough. I've found less threads that I thought, anyway. I certaintly don't want to spam the board, but it is certainly something worth being aware of for sluggish remotes.
Maybe I'll get a mention in : - wiki/Fixes_/_Work_Arounds_for_Known_Bugs

;o)
 
Anyone who uses the 'New Posts' option will pick up all new threads (surprise surprise. The clue is in the name) so there is no need to multiple post because it tees people off reading the same thing over and over. The other problem is that answers to the OP get scattered all over the forum, and it's often difficult for the OP to sort out the wheat from the chaff. (I realise that the latter doesn't apply in this instance).
 
JeffCooper said:
No, its 2 different remotes (logitech harmony), with the 2 boxes in different rooms - both wired ethernet; as I said in the title, its very weird - but I must admit I was expecting more people to say "hey, thats just happened to me" as well !!
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And I bet you have low energy light bulbs in both rooms, the older style based on fluorescent bulb type tubes, not LED ones. These seem to radiate a lot of infra red light as they warm up, which floods the sensor on the PVR.

I bet when you found one machine wasn't responding it was just after you turned the lights on in an evening, then having found that went into the other room, turned the lights on to find the remote and found that one didn't work either.

I have had exactly the same problem with my HDR-Fox-T2, and it behaved exactly as you described until the bulbs warmed up. I now have LED lights and no longer have the problem.
 
antipodean said:
And I bet you have low energy light bulbs in both rooms, the older style based on fluorescent bulb type tubes, not LED ones. These seem to radiate a lot of infra red light as they warm up, which floods the sensor on the PVR.
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I had a Ferguson TV many years ago that used an odd carrierless IR remote and that did have problems with CFLs until they warmed up. I've never seen a problem with CFLs and 38kHz/40kHz carrier IR remotes, but then I always used branded GE/Osram/Philips ones.

I've just pointed my 38kHz sniffer at the only CFL left in the house - in a bedside lamp where its slow start is a desirable - and there's nothing until I get to within a foot of the lamp itself.

It's not really IR, it's near IR, just below the low end of visible at around 940nm. LED lamps don't put out anything here.

If anyone is still using CFLs then change to LEDs and you'll be amazed. The output of CFLs left on all evening can drop below 75% in less than 18 months and on to 50% after three years. The branded LED GLS lamps here dropped around say 5-10% in the first year or so then stopped.
 
everthewatcher said:
I've just pointed my 38kHz sniffer at the only CFL left in the house - in a bedside lamp where its slow start is a desirable - and there's nothing until I get to within a foot of the lamp itself.

It's not really IR, it's near IR, just below the low end of visible at around 940nm. LED lamps don't put out anything here.
Click to expand...

The impression I had was the CFL was just radiating so much IR that it flooded the sensor. It be that the ones I had were particularly bad, they were certainly cheap, probably from Tesco, other favourite retailers are available.
 
antipodean said:
The impression I had was the CFL was just radiating so much IR that it flooded the sensor...
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I suspect the switching frequency of the CFL driver is within the bandwidth of the IR receiver. They have a peak response around 38kHz or so but will still respond quite some way below that - I've had them work quite happily at 7.8kHz after a uC programming error.

As the CFL warms up it's possible the phosphor's colour profile shifts and the light output flickers less at the driver frequency.
 
kally said:
Hi there! Can you recommend which Bluetooth Speaker better to choose for a kid?
I wanted to but something for my nephew on his birthday
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Who are you, and why are you asking something nothing to do with this forum? Reported as spam.
 
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