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Recap Kit

Umpa

Umpa

Member
Sorry if this has been asked already.
My Humax Fox T2 DVR is having problems starting up, crashes regularly and the VFD is very dim.
Are there any recap kits available - I realise it will likely do nothing for the dim VFD but if I could just get it back to a reliable working state.

Thanks
Ump..
 
I could only google for it same as you might, I have no ready knowledge of such a thing. That said, I could probably compile a kit, if there were enough takers to make bulk purchase viable (and thus a reasonable price... and Farnell charges for delivery if the order is less than £40 ex VAT).

Something on my to-do list is to come up with an alternative PSU. Meanwhile, I might be able to supply you with a tested PSU (so long as it's not the RE version).

Are you sure it's the PSU causing the problem? Have you removed the orange filter from the VFD to make it more legible?

Steps for Resolving HDR-FOX Crash/Reboot Issues (click)

HDR-FOX Commissioning, Disassembly, Repair (click)
 
Thanks I will have to open it and take a look - I can't remember which version it is. I am not sure if it is the PSU, but it's getting very old and am willing to invest in a kit, I don't think it will do any harm.
Been thinking of getting a replacement off ebay to see if I can fix up first and practice on.
This might sound daft, but I don't actually use the Humax to watch and record TV, it's a headless system, that I program with the webif to record my shows using series record, and the footage is backed up to a NAS, and I then watch the recordings with a computer, because of this it may stay frozen not recording for weeks or months before I realise - this is very annoying.
 
Umpa said:
I can't remember which version it is.
Click to expand...
From the wiki:

Hardware Types​

The Humax HDR-Fox T2 comes in two hardware revisions:

Original hardware with horizontal tuner sockets.
Can use any firmware version		HDR-rear-orig.png
RE hardware with vertical tuner sockets.
Can only use 1.03.xx firmware.		HDR-rear-re.png
Click to expand...

Umpa said:
Been thinking of getting a replacement off ebay to see if I can fix up first and practice on.
Click to expand...
That's the way I would go, but try to get a matching unit for spares compatibility (RE or non-RE, AKA "V1"). If the item received passes the commissioning – use it as-is.

Umpa said:
because of this it may stay frozen not recording for weeks or months before I realise - this is very annoying.
Click to expand...
That will be a problem even if you fix the PSU (or whatever) – network-active HDRs crash from time to time whatever your do. There's a work-around:
  1. Register it on RS, then you get an email if it drops out and fails to "phone home" for a few hours;

  2. Put a remote-controlled (WiFi) power socket in line with it, so you can reboot it remotely. I have Gosund units which have Android and iOS apps, but there are many clones and I even saw some in the local discount DIY for £12.
It would even be possible to have your PC (or whatever) periodically ping the HDR, and issue a power cycle reboot if there was no response (only suitable for an always-on HDR).

(I don't actually use my Gosunds behind the HDRs [yet], a problem I have is my HomePlug network dropping out, which results in multiple reports from RS, and I reboot the master HomePlug!)
 
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Black Hole said:
(I don't actually use my Gosunds behind the HDRs [yet], a problem I have is my HomePlug network dropping out, which results in multiple reports from RS, and I reboot the master HomePlug!)
Click to expand...
As luck would have it, I just had to reboot one of the remote HomePlugs (not on a WiFi socket)!
 
I am going to do what you do I think.
I just bought another FT2, if it works ok I will use it as the main machine, and try to fix my original.
Thanks for all your help.
Ump..
 
Luke said:
Has your VFD its orange filter still?
Click to expand...
No it is stock, apart from the custom firmware and I swapped the fan from suck to blow in an attempt to keep the unit a little cooler.
FWIW the new one arrived the other day and is much brighter VFD and still has the original security seal intact.
I have decided to install both, and see how it goes.

Regards
Ump..
 
Bogbody said:
Replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the VFD panel should restore the display brightness.
Click to expand...
Yeah - it is on the to-do list. I figured someone might have put a kit together that's all. I like the foxt2 with the custom firmware so want to keep it going for as long as I can. It gets me, that mine is in mint condition along with the remote but the display is toast, and the one I just bought is in good nick, but the remote is warn quite badly, making me think the DVR had a lot of use - yet the display is perfect.
 
Its not use that does it - its how long its been switched on with the display active.
I've just done an ebay - no kits.
Satcure did kits but now you'll need to buy the individual capacitors from ebay.
Use low-esr, 125C parts from known brands (Panasonic, Rubicon etc) from ebay suppliers with good feedback or pay more and get them from Farnell/Digikey etc.
 
Bogbody said:
Replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the VFD panel should restore the display brightness.
Click to expand...
Tommyrot.

The reason the VFD fades is the ageing of the phosphor. No amount of swapping capacitors will change that, wherever you got that from it's fake news.

The only way to improve matters is to "go green".
 
Black Hole said:
Tommyrot.

The reason the VFD fades is the ageing of the phosphor. No amount of swapping capacitors will change that, wherever you got that from it's fake news.

The only way to improve matters is to "go green".
Click to expand...
So I need a new VFD then ?
Edit - just to add the only reason I want to keep it orange is for nostalgia reasons. If I cant get a replacement part I guess I will have to go green.
 
No, you just take the orange filter off (very carefully). Instructions are in the wiki.

The display being green, and the filter being orange, means not a lot of light gets through. The result is a green display which would be too bright if it was like that at the start of life. That's what I meant by going green. IIRC the CF can dim the display if necessary (see redring package).

Black Hole said:
Have you removed the orange filter from the VFD to make it more legible?
Click to expand...
 
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Black Hole said:
No, you just take the orange filter off (very carefully). Instructions are in the wiki.

The display being green, and the filter being orange, means not a lot of light gets through. The result is a green display which would be too bright if it was like that at the start of life. That's what I meant by going green. IIRC the CF can dim the display if necessary (see redring package).
Click to expand...
No - I did not want to do that to be honest - but as a last resort I will have to.
 
Ages?
Oh well ... all the displays I have fixed (from cookers to vcrs and other stuff) must have been young displays then :cool:
 
I tried changing the brightness in CF, It wont go any brighter - but can make it dimmer. I should have turned the brightness down a long time ago - then perhaps it would still be working.
 
Black Hole said:
Tommyrot.

The reason the VFD fades is the ageing of the phosphor. No amount of swapping capacitors will change that, wherever you got that from it's fake news.

The only way to improve matters is to "go green".
Click to expand...

"Tommyrot" .... I raise you "Balderdash".... its such a pleaure to exchange banter with a Supierior Engineer.
So much of a pleasure that I am humbled and must leave quietly by the back door :)
 
There's no need for that, but I take it you don't believe me. OK, your choice.

Okay, I acknowledge the brightness could vary according to supply voltage (filament current or HT), but you are presuming that is the problem here and would need to measure actual voltages to confirm. Without detailed knowledge of the circuit in question, you can't say and neither can I.

However, the dimming characteristic is gradual and incessant, which I propose is not characteristic of the effect on voltage capacitor ageing would have. So we are left with phosphor ageing, filament oxidation, or metal deposition. You might be able to renovate the filament using a reconditioning current, but that's not a simple or risk-free process, so it doesn't really matter which factor is dominant.
 
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