Picture Break Up - Sutton Coldfield Transmitter

[Black Hole]

I have a 5 year warranty on my box so wouldn't using the custom firmware cause that to be invalid? I have thought about changing to the custom firmware in the past but haven't done so for fear of invalidating my warranty.

Very slim risk. In the early days there was reason to be cautious, but we have a great deal of experience now which says that in the vast majority of cases the unit can be returned to "stock" in the event of a warranty return, and in cases where it can't the modifications will probably be buried anyway.

Besides which, as we do not alter the unit physically, it is a moot point whether the warranty is invalidated at all. Humax approve user update of firmware by USB, which is what we do (just not with Humax updates).

The custom firmware is not a change as such, it just adds a layer of functionality to the existing Humax functions (which continue uninterrupted), but some of that functionality is devoted to removing or reducing the annoyances which Humax have saddled us with.

 

[Ezra Pound]

Was there a re-tune from Sutton in the last few weeks?

Yes, there was a DSO "Now or Later" message in the Sutton Coldfield area on the 5th. February (see link HERE)

 

[Leonthefixer]

Very slim risk...
Humax approve user update of firmware by USB, which is what we do (just not with Humax updates).....
The custom firmware is not a change as such, it just adds a layer of functionality to the existing Humax functions (which continue uninterrupted), but some of that functionality is devoted to removing or reducing the annoyances which Humax have saddled us with.

Many thanks for that. I will look at adding it to my box then if it is unlikely to be an issue, just a matter of finding time to do it now.

Yup, I know somebody in a wheel chair because of a window cleaning accident. Ballroom dancer too (or was...).

On 24 hours in A&E last night there was a bloke who had gone up on the roof to fix something, by the sounds of it had no safety equipment. Slipped, grabbed the guttering but couldn't get to his ladder, dropped 20ft and smashed his legs to pieces. 3 months in hospital, multiple operations and a long road to recovery and a lifetime of issues probably. Think I will stick to my overkill on the safety when working at heights, better safe and spend a bit more time setting it all up than sorry!

BTW. I can recommend getting a Ladder M8trix for any one who doesn't have someone to foot their ladders, even if you do I would still look to get one, I picked mine up for £35 as it was on offer:

 

[Black Hole]

Many thanks for that. I will look at adding it to my box then if it is unlikely to be an issue, just a matter of finding time to do it now.

Once you get over the trepidation, it will take no more than 15 minutes to flash the firmware and then run the Internet download, then install the disable-ota and disable-dso packages. You will then want a lot more time to play with the new capabilities.

Preventing External Events from Disturbing the CF (click)

 

[prpr]

The reason I said that it makes sense to not have a separate amplifier and splitter is I have been told in this thread that all connections introduce some reduction to the signal and are best kept to a minimum, (that was the knowledge upon which it was based, seeing as you ask). It seems that you disagree with this as you tell me that I am wrong. I have also read on Aerials & TV's website that all connections and joints should be kept to a minimum, it seems they are wrong as well?

Connections do introduce a small signal loss - I don't disagree - BUT, there is a lot of garbage written about it. If you are so close to threshold that you are in danger of these small losses making a difference, then you need an amplifier upstream in the first place. Once that is there, you should have a lot more margin and you can afford numerous small losses downstream.
So the "keeping connections to a minimum" advice is actually mostly bogus. You do need to get the amplifier as close to the aerial as possible with no unnecessary connections though (a short distance of 3-4m getting you from outside to inside is generally not a problem and it's preferable to have the amp. inside if you can).

Furthermore, you yourself recommended to me that I do not need to get a separate amplifier and splitter

It makes little difference. I think you are confused though - I recommended separate amp. and PSU not separate amp. and splitter.
You can always site the PSU next to the amp. if you want, but you cannot split an integrated PSU/amp. if the need arises. This is why I said separate is better.

 

[prpr]

I don't agree with prpr on the splitter following the amp

I don't think I advocated that. But it makes little practical difference anyway.

 

[Black Hole]

Didn't you? Maybe not, but I picked up that you had. Sorry if so.

 

[Leonthefixer]

I have finally had chance to get the amplifier and install it this evening. I opted for the Proception 4 Way Variable Masthead Amplifier and Power Supply (which is powered from the lounge). I got it from CPC who did me a great price.

I am unsure at what level I should set the variable gain to. Is it a case of trial and error to see what is the lowest amplification level I can get away with without picture break up? Any advice on this would be most welcomed.

I have attached below the read outs from the Humax PVR with regards to signal quality and strength:

~ Table 1 shows the levels with the splitter added, so as to allow 2 TV's to be fed. This has led to picture break up in the past
~ Table 2 shows the levels with nothing added, the cables are joined by an in line connector. This is how the set up has been the last few weeks and all bar very minimal picture break up it has been fine 99.9% of the time
~ Table 3 shows the levels with the Proception Masthead Amplifier added and the amplification set to 1dB (minimum setting)
~ Table 4 shows the levels with the Proception Masthead Amplifier added and the amplification set to 8dB (midway setting)
~ Table 5 shows the levels with the Proception Masthead Amplifier added and the amplification set to 16dB (maximum setting)

With the amplifier set at 1dB (Table 3) it seems to get pretty much the same results as I have been getting the last few weeks with the cable joined by an in line connector. But with the added ability of being able to fed 2 - 4 TV's.

So should I set it to just 1dB and see how it goes or is it worth setting it a bit higher and getting higher readings?

Many thanks as ever for any advice/help.

 

[MikeSh]

Our boxes show mostly high 70s for strength without an amp and we are about 30 miles from the tx. So unless the power use by the amp is going to be significantly higher at higher gains I'd be inclined to set it to 16dB. It will reduce the effects of any interference getting in between the amp and the TVs/boxes.