A wonky L followed by and F, with the words "Lead Free" added near the bottom mean -On the HDR-Fox T2 main board (the 'main' PCB inside the box - shown here)... anyone know what the logo to the right of the Humax logo is?
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Looked like LF ('L' rotated). Or it could be CF (with a square-ish 'C')... maybe they were just gagging for a Custom Firmware!![]()
It is from the image here which lacks sufficient resolution. If somebody could open their box?Can you get a higher resolution image of that part of the logo?
There appears to be some tiny writing across the bottom of the L but image id too low res to be able to zoom in
Similarly google image search is unable to match on the LF logo part of the image
I see what you're saying... could be little writing saying "Lead Free". Just need a clearer picture...A wonky L followed by and F, with the words "Lead Free" added near the bottom?
Who knows!
Ah!I see what you're saying... could be little writing saying "Lead Free". Just need a clearer picture...




Bingo! Excellent detective work. It is useful to know it's lead-free if re-soldering anything.Ah!
Sorry. I now see that my post was ambiguous.
I've updated post #3.
It does say "Lead Free".
It's also used on some other Humax models which also have images available online, (e.g. FVP-4000T, e.g. HDR-1000S, e.g. LP32-TDR1, e.g. PVR-9150T)). Can't immediately re-find the one that I quickly laid eyes on earlier, but these PCBs are clearer than your choice.
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Plenty more on-line for you to search for, and download, if you want a clearer picture than the one you posted in your original post.
No, it's not useful to know. We (non-industry) are not trapped in those rules, and leaded solder is still available for repair of pre-lead-free assemblies (not to mention military and specialised applications). Leaded solder is much easier to use, and works regardless of whether what you're working on is lead-free.It is useful to know it's lead-free if re-soldering anything.
I say yes, you say no...No, it's not useful to know
So, based on what you said above (I've put in bold) - it is useful to know!On the other hand, lead-free is a pain in the arse under anything less than carefully controlled conditions, less reliable, and is incompatible with anything with lead in it. Using lead-free tools on something leaded contaminates them. If you're going lead-free, it's a total commitment.
For anything home-brew, use tin-lead solder. I have a lifetime stock!
He says stop, and you say go, go go...I say yes, you say no...