What is this logo on the HDR-Fox T2 main board?

HugeMaximum

HugeMaximum

Member
On the HDR-Fox T2 main board (the 'main' PCB inside the box - shown here)... anyone know what the logo to the right of the Humax logo is?
1781115204884.png
Looked like LF ('L' rotated). Or it could be CF (with a square-ish 'C')... maybe they were just gagging for a Custom Firmware! 😁
 
Can you get a higher resolution image of that part of the logo?
There appears to be some tiny writing across the bottom of the L but image id too low res to be able to zoom in
Similarly google image search is unable to match on the LF logo part of the image
 
HugeMaximum said:
On the HDR-Fox T2 main board (the 'main' PCB inside the box - shown here)... anyone know what the logo to the right of the Humax logo is?
View attachment 7850
Looked like LF ('L' rotated). Or it could be CF (with a square-ish 'C')... maybe they were just gagging for a Custom Firmware! 😁
Click to expand...
A wonky L followed by and F, with the words "Lead Free" added near the bottom mean -
who knows what that would indicate or mean!
 
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MymsMan said:
Can you get a higher resolution image of that part of the logo?
There appears to be some tiny writing across the bottom of the L but image id too low res to be able to zoom in
Similarly google image search is unable to match on the LF logo part of the image
Click to expand...
It is from the image here which lacks sufficient resolution. If somebody could open their box? 😁
 
HugeMaximum said:
I see what you're saying... could be little writing saying "Lead Free". Just need a clearer picture...
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Ah!
Sorry. I now see that my post was ambiguous.
I've updated post #3.

It does say "Lead Free".

It's also used on some other Humax models which also have images available online, (e.g. FVP-4000T, e.g. HDR-1000S, e.g. LP32-TDR1, e.g. PVR-9150T)). Can't immediately re-find the one that I quickly laid eyes on earlier, but these PCBs are clearer than your choice.

1781163561374.png

1781130321390.png

1781130017955.png

1781133540559.png

Plenty more on-line for you to search for, and download, if you want a clearer picture than the one you posted in your original post.
 
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Luke said:
Ah!
Sorry. I now see that my post was ambiguous.
I've updated post #3.

It does say "Lead Free".

It's also used on some other Humax models which also have images available online, (e.g. FVP-4000T, e.g. HDR-1000S, e.g. LP32-TDR1, e.g. PVR-9150T)). Can't immediately re-find the one that I quickly laid eyes on earlier, but these PCBs are clearer than your choice.

View attachment 7856

View attachment 7854

View attachment 7853

View attachment 7855

Plenty more on-line for you to search for, and download, if you want a clearer picture than the one you posted in your original post.
Click to expand...
Bingo! Excellent detective work. It is useful to know it's lead-free if re-soldering anything.
 
HugeMaximum said:
It is useful to know it's lead-free if re-soldering anything.
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No, it's not useful to know. We (non-industry) are not trapped in those rules, and leaded solder is still available for repair of pre-lead-free assemblies (not to mention military and specialised applications). Leaded solder is much easier to use, and works regardless of whether what you're working on is lead-free.

On the other hand, lead-free is a pain in the arse under anything less than carefully controlled conditions, less reliable, and is incompatible with anything with lead in it. Using lead-free tools on something leaded contaminates them. If you're going lead-free, it's a total commitment.

For anything home-brew, use tin-lead solder. I have a lifetime stock!
 
Black Hole said:
No, it's not useful to know
Click to expand...
I say yes, you say no...
Black Hole said:
On the other hand, lead-free is a pain in the arse under anything less than carefully controlled conditions, less reliable, and is incompatible with anything with lead in it. Using lead-free tools on something leaded contaminates them. If you're going lead-free, it's a total commitment.

For anything home-brew, use tin-lead solder. I have a lifetime stock!
Click to expand...
So, based on what you said above (I've put in bold) - it is useful to know! 😁
 
:sigh:

You can use leaded solder on a lead-free board, but the board then becomes leaded. You can't use lead-free solder on a leaded board. Always use leaded, and then you don't care one way or the other.
 
Black Hole said:
:sigh:

You can use leaded solder on a lead-free board, but the board then becomes leaded. You can't use lead-free solder on a leaded board. Always use leaded, and then you don't care one way or the other.
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That's useful to know 😁
It's also useful to know to adjust soldering iron temperature to the higher level required by lead-free... e.g. when unsoldering something from such a board. Very useful, actually 😁
 
Not necessary if you wet it with leaded for rework. Increasing your soldering temperature makes damage to the component, or to the board, much more likely.

prpr said:
He says stop, and you say go, go go...
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I'm glad somebody was on the right wavelength.
 
Black Hole said:
Not necessary if you wet it with leaded for rework. Increasing your soldering temperature makes damage to the component, or to the board, much more likely.


I'm glad somebody was on the right wavelength.
Click to expand...
That's a good 'tip' (if you're using the right one :lol:)... the lead-free logo is useful - so that you approach the work in the correct way! 😁
 
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