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What max current will the rear USB actually supply 5V at?

How about
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/317142545021
TP-Link TL-SG1005D 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch
Label shows 5V 0.6A V9.0
But beware - it's a used item. That power requirement maybe specific to that iteration & model.
Maybe the V9.0 is the one you want?

Eg this one won't be suitable.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/364917978923
TP-Link 5 Port TP Link TL-SG1005D Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch 10/100/1000
Label shows 9V 0.6A V6.0

Note1: other devices, sellers and sites are available. It was just me thinking out loud.

Note2: Murcusys MS105G or MS105GS probably 5V 0.6A
Note3: Slower Murcusys MS105 V2 - 5V 0.4A
https://www.mercusys.com/en/product/details/ms105/v2/#specifications
Rough electricity cost calculation
https://homenetworkgeek.com/how-much-power-does-a-network-switch-
 
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So many problems I have seen reported down the years with wireless/powerline connectivity with TV equipment. Wired ethernet all the way for me. Most recently by adding an ethernet to USB adapter to my Chromecast dongle plugged into the switch along with all my other TV boxes. Previously had been needing to reboot the Chromecast dongle every day.
 
TLDR, I might have missed some important detail, but if the problem is only how to connect TWO items to wired Ethernet over ONE cable, a PASSIVE SPLITTER offers (potentially) an ideal solution.

Assuming you don't need gigabit Ethernet (or PoE come to that, ie all 8 wires), it works by reallocating the conductors in one cable so that one link uses four conductors and the other link uses the other four. You need one at each end of the cable (to combine and then split). No power required.

1754895785464.jpeg

I have obtained and used passive splitters in the past, but I can't now find a verifiable unit on eBay/Amazon* so you might have to make them yourself. It's easy enough:

1754897890967.png

* Beware that the units I found *might* simply duplicate all 8 connections on both ports. The description reads as if they do. That being the case, it is still possible to use them with an adapter cable:

1754899143218.jpeg
 
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Beware that the units I found *might* simply duplicate all 8 connections on both ports. The description reads as if they do. That being the case, it is still possible to use them with an adapter cable:
I'd never heard of such a device. When I did the now almost obligatory web search I found the a similar problem. https://www.dcdi.co.uk/2-port-passive-hub Only one device can be active - pointless? There is a link to a RJ45 Economiser (link in red). Could this be what you were initially referring to?
 
TLDR, I might have missed some important detail, but if the problem is only how to connect TWO items to wired Ethernet over ONE cable, a PASSIVE SPLITTER offers (potentially) an ideal solution.
I'm aware of those devices, we used them at one of my previous jobs. They would do the job at my parents apart from one problem: there are no spare sockets on the broadband router at the other end of the cable. Routers generally only have 4 ethernet ports, and it's surprisingly easy to fill them.
 
This is actually the thing one would need: https://www.dcdi.co.uk/rj45-economiser-cat5e-splitter x2 obvs. Plus 4x patch cables and probably a couple of RJ45 barrels. Ugh.
I like those. The ones I've seen before had no indication of the internal connectivity.

They would do the job at my parents apart from one problem: there are no spare sockets on the broadband router at the other end of the cable.
...but fitting a switch close to the (always on) router might be easier to get away with than having it near the AV.
 
Not necessarily pointless in a TV set up where you are actually only streaming/watching from one device at a time.
I was thinking of where you might, in BH's diagram, want to stream from the HDR-FOX to the TV. But now I suddenly doubt that is possible - (rhet.) can you stream from an HDR-FOX?
 
The ones I've seen before had no indication of the internal connectivity.
Anything that says you can only use one device at once is just an RJ45 parallel box i.e. pin 1 goes to pin 1 on all 3 sockets and likewise for the other seven. Utterly hideous things - just like RF Y adapters instead of proper splitters.
fitting a switch close to the (always on) router might be easier to get away with than having it near the AV
But then you need to run another cable.
can you stream from an HDR-FOX?
Why on earth would anyone want to? You just use the HDMI, as presumably like at the moment.
HDR Fox T2 will act as a DLNA server, and it does work.
I never got it to with a several different TVs (Sony). It was a god-awful slow experience just to get a list of things to play, and then it wouldn't play anything.
The only thing I've ever got DLNA to work with is another HD[R], and that's not terribly pleasant either (slow, hard to find stuff, random order of items, no usable transport controls).
 
I have been using Edimax ES3308P switches when working away from home and they can be powered via USB 5V 0.6A.
5 port or 8 port version?

These look like 100mbit but that isn't a problem, broadband is 38mbits at my parents. And no streaming service has streams much above 25mbits anyway.
 
Only one device can be active - pointless?
Saves swapping cables around if you only have one Ethernet outlet available and only one device powered up at a time. Not completely (but almost) pointless.

Anything that says you can only use one device at once is just an RJ45 parallel box
Indeed. I was talking about the "economiser"-type splitters I've used/seen, which had no information and I had to bleep out to verify.

But then you need to run another cable.
router–switch(2 ports)–economiser–cable.x1–economiser–AV.x2

I've never used gigabit Ethernet. Question: Is there some kind of auto-detection which falls back to 10/100 (ie two pairs) if 1000 (four pairs) isn't working?
 
Is there some kind of auto-detection which falls back to 10/100 (ie two pairs) if 1000 (four pairs) isn't working?
Oh yes... that's why you use a proper cable pair tester and check the speed on the end device. Endless amounts of fun with mis-terminated cables ensues otherwise.
 
Endless amounts of fun with mis-terminated cables ensues otherwise.
(Slightly OT) Back in the 1980s - Incorrectly terminating network ports on a VAXCluster. Endless fun and bleeping terminals! Especially operator console. "Beep - circuit up", "Beep line synchronisation lost - circuit down" messages approximately 5s apart until problem rectified.
 
(Slightly OT) Back in the 1980s - Incorrectly terminating network ports on a VAXCluster. Endless fun and bleeping terminals! Especially operator console. "Beep - circuit up", "Beep line synchronisation lost - circuit down" messages approximately 5s apart until problem rectified.
People used to report all sorts of problems trying to use SCSI devices, generally hard discs and scanners. I used SCSI a lot and never had any trouble, but then I always properly terminated the SCSI bus whereas most people seemed to think that was optional or were unaware of the requirement. I remember one chap who refused to sort out his SCSI termination insisting it couldn't be the cause of his problems because "it used to work like this".
 
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