The problem is obviously in the distribution system in the flats not your equipment. I'm not surprised as it's probably been bodged to solve the COM7/8 mux. move problem.Both tuners have Strength around 51% and Quality a solid 100% on all Transponders apart from 7460000Khz & 754000Khz, which report Strength 55-60% (higher) and Quality fluctuating wildly between 20% and 100%.
It's difficult to say. There could be several effects at work here.I'm still confused as to how I can get good reception on the COM 7 channels if I am recording another channel?
Not specifically since the change, no, but it just means you need a DVB-T2 receiver rather than a DVB-T receiver. Which is obviously not a problem for HDR T2s."It has reduced coverage and is only available on newer Freeview devices."
Is this suggesting that some older devices just won't work with this now?
Just because your neighbours' feeds are OK doesn't mean yours is. But you need independent measuring kit, as I said before. Relying on one receiver is a difficult sell to get somebody to come out though. And you need to have ruled out your own locally generated interference (leaky HDMI leads and poorly screened RF fly-leads etc.).This problem seems to get worse by the day, I'm now starting to get more breakup on the previously good channels BBC1 HD etc.
If this were the case, might putting a booster between wall socket and T2 improve the situation?Not necessarily, it could possibly be that your TV tuner is a little more sensitive, and that the T2 is 'teetering on the edge' of good reception.
No. Boosters make the Carrier/Noise margin worse not better. The problem is not a low signal level, based on figures previously supplied.might putting a booster between wall socket and T2 improve the situation?
I've tried a different RF lead, no difference, no admittedly this and the existing lead are both cheap ones. Is it worth trying a better quality one?leaky HDMI leads and poorly screened RF fly-leads etc
The T2 is already plugged directly into the aerial socket. The TV connects to the aerial via the T2 (and works ok). Is that what you mean by "fed through the T2"?If you are going to replace any cables, replace the RF ones not the HDMI first. But before any of that malarky, plug the T2 directly into the aerial socket with nothing else (apart from the TV of course and make sure that the HDMI cable is as far from the aerial cable as is possible.
You still didn't rise to the bait cast in your direction about is the TV aerial fed through the T2?
Yes. If it's cheap and white and has plastic plugs on the end then throw it away.the existing lead are both cheap ones. Is it worth trying a better quality one?
Well, one of them is black, but yes, the sort you normally get in the box when you buy a new TV/PVRYes. If it's cheap and white and has plastic plugs on the end then throw it away.
I've been looking on Amazon, but I can't find references to this cable in any of the descriptions. Can you send me a link to something suitable on Amazon, pref with Prime next day delivery (I'm a member)?CT100/WF100 cable
Yes, works fine.Is the TV still OK when connected directly to the aerial outlet?
I can't, because there is nothing suitable.Can you send me a link to something suitable on Amazon
Ah, I put WF100 RF Cable and it came up with lots of cheap looking cables, but no actual mention of "WF100" in the listing!Put WF 100 into Amazon search. There are loads of hits. Unfortunately most are for 50m drums.
That one looks like it has cable rather than aerial connectors.You might be better off with this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Satellite-...-Wf100-2-F-s-Ct100/686825514?iid=220560671081 for £4.75.
Most people would associate those (F Type) connectors with satellite TV. But they are the easiest and most reliable to fit (providing you use the right size), as fitting the Belling Lee ones is really a bit 'Heath Robinson', but you then need the adaptors that are in my second link to make a really sound 'proper job' that fits your telly.That one looks like it has cable rather than aerial connectors.