It looks like this one needs a new 5V chip. Input supply is 5.81V, but the feedback control pin is only 0.77V when it would be 1.25V if regulating correctly.
So your original problem wasn't resolved by changing the cap? I think we were all left wondering whether it had!
Nice work. Always worth considering the best way to remove a dud component. I used a similar technique recently after the Tektronix PAL vectorscope I was refurbishing made an interesting noise and started emitting copious quantities of the magic smoke - a filter cap across the mains input had died. I didn't fancy the work involved in removing the large PCB so waggled the cap until its leads fractured, then soldered a new (Class X2 type) to the plated-through holes (which I knew I'd find beneath). The board cleaned-up quite nicely.
Never got around to it, but I was always dubious we were talking about the same thing.
No diff phase there then, although the burst phase is a bit off. Is that Set90 or Set180 that needs a tweak... I forget now.
Mother's food mixer/beater thingy suffered the exact same problem. She turned it off at the wall rather than on the device (she almost always did), then phoned me asking what to do and whether to try turning it on again. I said NO!
Having removed the defective C, I was amazed to find the exact same part in the spares drawer. Fitted it and been working ever since, which is sadly more than can be said about her cooking days.
Yes, well spotted! The bars were coming from a Snell & Wilcox TBC11P set to output a test signal (also does multiburst) - could be its coder needs a tweak, rather than a problem with the vectorscope (which I haven't tweaked at all).
Maybe. But I think a lot depends on how thick the wires are and how messy cutting through the cap might be.
I had another look at T2 no.2 after studying the LDO reg data sheet again, and the feedback pin 5 is doing the right thing because the control pin 1 is low. I'm not going to be able to find where this signal comes from without a circuit.
I used the cutting the top off the cap method because i feared damaging the board. My cutters are very small & sharp. But i just found a scrap humax board (DTR-T1010) with similar caps & used a gentle twist backwards & forwards & got good results on each cap. I didnt force anything & just continued till they came off.
I did much the same. Cut the top off, then gently pulled the rest using a pair of pliers and it came away from the board with very little force needed. So no damage and no mess, just leaving the soldered connections broken off at board level not causing any problems. I didn't fancy applying heat to remove them because of the proximity of those absolutely miniscule resistors.
I didn't bother replacing it as I didn't see what it would achieve.
It seems like it's the same problem though as it has been completely stable for over a week now. Previously it either wouldn't switch on at all (if warm) or would crash within 2 minutes, making it completely unusable. I guess the leak though the C was enough to kill the 12V disk power mostly all the time.
It seems like it is not vital. I struggled to think how it would be.
If you've never wielded a soldering iron yourself, your best bet is probably a community repair shop or similar.
If you post your location, there may be someone near to you who is willing to help.
