Black Hole
May contain traces of nut
Swapping a HDD between HDR-FOXesNot sure what to do now. Does anyone have one for sale? I have a disk full of recordings, if I put the disk in another hummy will I be able to access the recordings?
Swapping a HDD between HDR-FOXesNot sure what to do now. Does anyone have one for sale? I have a disk full of recordings, if I put the disk in another hummy will I be able to access the recordings?
As a general rule yes, but not when you know the circuit parameters. 35V is unnecessary in this case, even 25V is overkill.We explained at the time it was not a good idea to replace a 4.7uf electrolytic capacitor that is 25v on this machine. The original is rated at 35V 4.7uf and a smd Capacitor. You agreed for us to put our part on. You should not change a smd capacitor for a through hole version. You should replace like for like. You can put a higher voltage on it but not lower. Capacitance should be the same, not lower or within 10% higher...
Looking at the pictures you have provided the green wire has not been prepared, fitted or soldered very well. I would be embarrassed if I had charged a fee for that workmanship !The said one of the solder pads came off so they had to use a wire.
Precisely my thought on seeing that picture. I'd be embarrassed if that were my work and I'm strictly a hobbyist. And it would be normal to fit solid core wire for a repair like that, not multi strand as they have done with attendant risk of a strand coming loose and shorting to something else.Looking at the pictures you have provided the green wire has not been prepared, fitted or soldered very well. I would be embarrassed if I had charged a fee for that workmanship !
Just fixed my PVR that was constantly rebooting and wanted to thank you for the advice. Just wish I had seen this before dumping my last machine that had the same problem.Replacing the Mosfet (U24) and the 4u7 cap in the HDD 12V switching circuit has fixed our faulty PVR; it is an ex-faulty PVR. The conclusion, then, is that the likely culprit for any problem embraced by this thread’s title (or something similar, especially if temperature-related) is that 4u7/35V SMD cap. I replaced it with a 4u7/25V conventional electrolytic (there’s never more than 12V across it, so the derating is ok). Remember, I blew-up the Mosfet (still don’t see how) - it wasn't responsible for the original fault.
The details of how the PVR detects a problem with a slow-starting HDD 12V and forces a restart (and why, at other times, such as for scheduled recordings from standby, it’s not bothered) remain a mystery. As does why it boots ok with the HDD disconnected.
I joined this thread at post #67 and we’re now at #122. Sorry about that – but I thought present and future readers would benefit from a blow-by-blow account of fixing this fault.
Removing the HDD supplies' test wires and replacing the SPDIF socket will complete the job for me.
Your first post! Great to hear you fixed your HDR Fox T2.Just fixed my PVR that was constantly rebooting and wanted to thank you for the advice. Just wish I had seen this before dumping my last machine that had the same problem.
Glad you fixed the problem. I like working on these machines as they are very serviceable in terms of dismantling, ease of access, etc. I'm currently reacquainting myself with ours since I'm trying to recover its hard drive which it is now saying needs formatting (though it doesn't) - the subject of another thread. Having a couple of spare units is a big help in trouble-shooting.Just fixed my PVR that was constantly rebooting and wanted to thank you for the advice. Just wish I had seen this before dumping my last machine that had the same problem.
The suspect cap is in the centre of the attached pic, marked 4,7 35V - any 4u7 (4.7 microfarad) electrolytic capacitor rated 16V or more will do the job - it doesn't have to be SMD (surface mount device) like the original. You need a soldering iron (25W, ideally) and basic skills to remove the suspect and install a new one. It's vital to apply plenty of heat to both sides of the original cap so that it can be cleanly removed without damaging the printed track. Hope that helps.Hi all. I have no electronic knowledge so much of this is way over my head. But my t2 has the same symptoms, ie won’t boot with the hd connected, but will once it is disconnected. Hd works fine once plugged in after boot. Can someone tell me which capacitor needs replacing, specifically where it is on the board and how to go about it? Any chance 8 will be able to do it without any specialist equipment? Many thanks
I take it you mean the boot loop rather than not trying to boot at all?my t2 has the same symptoms, ie won’t boot with the hd connected, but will once it is disconnected.
You know I've never understood what you mean by the boot loop. There's no loop on a screen so what loop do you mean?I take it you mean the boot loop rather than not trying to boot at all?
The attached pics may help. The first shows a good PVR being taken out of standby (ie turned on) and the HDD supplies establishing ok. The second was what was happening when mine went faulty showing it making several attempts to establish the supplies (mine eventually got there). In both pics I put into standby (ie turned off) after the supplies had established; the supplies then shut off a short while later. The onset of cold weather heralded the fault - cooking the PVR in an oven at 30C and use of freezer spray were key to tracking down the fault.You know I've never understood what you mean by the boot loop. There's no loop on a screen so what loop do you mean?