Start Up Fails When HDD Connected

Incidentally, I do a lot of moving of recordings between folders but have learnt not to do this while it's recording as maybe 1-in-20 times it causes a system crash and the recording to stop (not fail, though).
Very strange - a move on the same file system is very lightweight just updating the directory with no actual data movement or are you moving to USB or network drive
 
Very strange - a move on the same file system is very lightweight just updating the directory with no actual data movement or are you moving to USB or network drive
No USB stick or network drive involved (not network-connected). About a year ago I created "Pending" and "Current" folders for the programmes I'm interested in (very different from my wife's choices!) and move folders/programmes into, and between, them on a daily basis. The propensity for the system to crash and reboot when trying to execute a move soon became apparent after implementing this strategy. Only happens occasionally, so not a big problem (provided it's not recording).
 
Are you doing that by SUI? I find that more problematic than, say, WebIF. I suggest a strategy of recording to the target folders in the first place (if they are series recordings, using folder edit in WebIF >> Schedule), and/or sweeper to set rules for relocation immediately post-recording.
 
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I'm using the standard user interface with an original Humax remote control; software is v1.03.12 (ie, the latest - Feb 2014!) Haven't yet got round to exploring the custom firmware. On my to-do list is regularly backing-up/cloning the HDD as I'm conscious that if this dies I would likely lose everything. Three years ago I had a couple of "HDD needs formatting" warnings; the first I dutifully followed, the second I chased away with a power-off/on (no recurrences since). Not sure whether the Humax software makes backing-up/cloning possible or easy - does the custom firmware? (I'm used to backing-up/cloning using Macrium Reflect, but don't fancy physically removing the HDD every week.) Apologies for going off-topic here.
 
Three years ago I had a couple of "HDD needs formatting" warnings; the first I dutifully followed
Arrggghhhh – nooooo!!!!!!!

Not sure whether the Humax software makes backing-up/cloning possible or easy - does the custom firmware?
Not specifically, but what you do get is file system repair tools and access to the HDD built-in test and recovery (SMART).

Quick Guide to Disk Recovery (click)

v1.03.12 (ie, the latest - Feb 2014!)
That's not the latest, but the latest restores BBC iPlayer while introducing unwanted bugs (particularly for HD-FOX) and the CF can restore iPlayer anyway...
 
That's not the latest, but the latest restores BBC iPlayer while introducing unwanted bugs (particularly for HD-FOX) and the CF can restore iPlayer anyway...
Blimey! You're right! It's a while since I checked the Humax support page, but v1.03.13 was released in early 2021 - 7 years on from the previous release. That's quite a surprise and - as you say in the Things Every... guide - remarkable. Think we'll stick with v1.03.12 though as we're not network-connected. Will also make a point of checking the guide more often!
 
I've applied Newcoppiceman's capacitor fix to a third HDR-FOX-T2 that had begun to occasionally sulk. Freezer spray in the relevant area woke it again every time, so this was a positive pointer.
As with the other T2s I merely tagged another C across the existing 4.7uF. It now keeps working after having soak tested with On/Offs and freezer spray etc.
A little pic.
Many thanks.
 

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I merely tagged another C across the existing 4.7uF.
Safer to remove the faulty cap, I think (provided you're confident you won't damage the board). If you don't you might have further problems in future as goodness knows what behaviours those caps are capable of exhibiting once their internal chemistry goes gaga. Sounds like this was a different problem to the one I had: reluctant to start up - solution: bang the unit in the oven at 30C (rather than freezing it).
 
I have just received an HDR Fox T2 that is in a boot loop when the hdd is connected. The HDD seems okay on my pc. System flush & reinstalling the firmware hasnt fixed it but it will work with a 2.5 inch drive & if i connect the original hdd using a usb dock i can access the files on it. That means i can copy files to the 2.5 inch drive so that looks like a method of retrieving them. The 12v & 5v rails seem okay in this situation. I will investigate further at the weekend. When connecting the dock i made sure that the power to it was unplugged first because my previous dock got zapped when i did that once before with it powered up.
 
I have just received an HDR Fox T2 that is in a boot loop when the hdd is connected. The HDD seems okay on my pc. System flush & reinstalling the firmware hasnt fixed it but it will work with a 2.5 inch drive & if i connect the original hdd using a usb dock i can access the files on it. That means i can copy files to the 2.5 inch drive so that looks like a method of retrieving them. The 12v & 5v rails seem okay in this situation. I will investigate further at the weekend. When connecting the dock i made sure that the power to it was unplugged first because my previous dock got zapped when i did that once before with it powered up.
Worth changing the dreaded cap "on spec" - will probably fix the problem.
 
it will work with a 2.5 inch drive & if i connect the original hdd using a usb dock i can access the files on it. That means i can copy files to the 2.5 inch drive so that looks like a method of retrieving them. The 12v & 5v rails seem okay in this situation.
Most 2.5" drives don't use 12V power so whether the 12V drive supply in the Humax works or not is moot.
12V power to external USB docks doesn't come off the switched 12V rail (or even off the USB at all), so likewise.
 
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Worth changing the dreaded cap "on spec" - will probably fix t

Worth changing the dreaded cap "on spec" - will probably fix the problem.
I have the cap off without any disasters happening. This bit worried me as i have struggled with smd removal before. My solution was to snip the top off of the cap in several goes with a very small pair of wire cutters & cut the side of the can, clearing out the insides & snipping the leads before pulling the remains off of the board. Then i could desolder the two leads easily using my weller tcp iron with a small bit. Now i am waiting for 4.7μF to arrive.
 
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My solution was to snip the top off of the cap in several goes with a very small pair of wire cutters & cut the side of the can, clearing out the insides & snipping the leads before pulling the remains off of the board. Then i could desolder the two leads easily using my weller tcp iron with a small bit.
Wise to take every precaution to reduce risk of damage to the board. With that particular approach just have to be careful no metal shards or other bits are left inside the case to cause problems later (tip: after any work, including soldering, invert-and-shake and/or use a spray-duster liberally).
 
It's not worth me offering to supply when a supply is available for hardly any more than the price of a stamp.
 
I wonder if my ones are the real deal?
Don't worry, I buy similarly and have never had a problem (almost*).

These sellers buy in bulk, then use contract delivery, and eek out a profit where it would be unprofitable on an individual basis. In the absence of Maplin, Tandy, and the back-street electronics junk shops/hobby shops of my youth (there are still one or two about, but you have to be in the right part of the country), eBay is your best bet (RS, Farnell, Mouser etc have minimum orders and delivery charges which make the purchase of the odd capacitor or two totally uneconomic).

* Except the time a pot was advertised as "log" when actually it was reverse-log. The seller was adamant I was out of date and reverse-log is not a useful description, that I should have been aware of what the taper code meant, but gave me my money back anyway so I guess he lost the argument without admitting he lost the argument (and changed the listing - but still it doesn't say reverse-log when other sellers do).

He claimed to have sold hundreds, including to "professionals" without complaint, but I can't think for the life of me what mainstream use there is for a reverse-log pot, so I suspect people buying them simply haven't noticed their volume controls don't work very well. My opinion is that he has a batch of nearly-useless reverse-log pots and found a way to off-load them onto the unsuspecting.

That was close on the heels of a run-in I had with the seller of a disco light. The unit supplied was of lower specification than advertised, so of course the seller was responsible for return post but he refused to acknowledge that. I invoked eBay's returns process, and eBay issued a returns label (which might have been what the seller wanted to happen, but as I had never done it before it would have been helpful if the seller told me that). I left that seller negative feedback for what I viewed as potentially deliberate mis-selling, and he complained that as I had received a refund, I shouldn't have done!

Then there was a microphone which was absolute crap, and the seller disappeared. I could have invoked eBay's returns, but I was unaware of it back then.

Apart from that, over hundreds of purchases, my experience has been overwhelmingly positive.
 
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Safer to remove the faulty cap, I think (provided you're confident you won't damage the board). If you don't you might have further problems in future as goodness knows what behaviours those caps are capable of exhibiting once their internal chemistry goes gaga. Sounds like this was a different problem to the one I had: reluctant to start up - solution: bang the unit in the oven at 30C (rather than freezing it).
I agree. I can see that if the SM cap is leaking a tiny bit of current then the FET might not have enough gate volts to turn on fully, and then higher peak demand on the FET by a busy HD could cause a problem.

I don't have the right tools to hand to guarantee success and just tagging it "seems" to work. But the second machine I fixed has died again while on soak test so I thought I'd do as you recommended, and since it is only a spare what have I got to lose?

First pic is with SM cap removed, phew, and next pic is with another new 4.7uF leaded cap.

But... I should have checked all the supplies to the HD first because the +5V is missing, while the +12V is switching OK. Both are OK leaving the PSU card, so I need to find the +5V control chip. I remember it has been mentioned in this thread. Off for a look.
 

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